Feb 2008

Chinese symbol for luck in Hoi An, Vietnam

We arrived in Hoi An, Vietnam via a surprisingly pleasant, reasonably priced bus from Hue. The journey took about four hours, and we arrived in the middle of a full-on downpour of rain. We had given our names to our guesthouse in advance of travelling to be sure that someone would meet us at the bus station. Somehow, though, through the magic Vietnamese travel gods that be, a representative FROM our accommodation showed up on our bus with a handwritten sign with our names on it, and proceeded to drive us straight to the guesthouse. Talk about door to door!

Hoi An is a lovely Vietnamese city, perhaps most famous, and rightly so, as the tailoring capital of SE Asia. The master tailors here can crank out made-to-measure clothes at a fraction of western prices in less than 24 hours... and as we were to discover, also provided the added benefit of a completely amusing and unique bargaining experience to boot. Catt's plan was to get a few tailor-made suits and shirts. Megan's plan was a little less practical- getting a few fun party dresses and a stylish winter coat (probably not to be worn for another 12 months, as we are following summer for a year, here. But practicality, schmacticality, right?)

We spent a few hours scouting out a good tailor (there are literally hundreds of shops, all offering seemingly similar prices and a mind-boggling amount of fabrics, buttons, options, etc) and finally decided upon a small shop run by some of the liveliest and most mischievous girls we'd ever encountered in our travels. Catt purchased two cashmere-blend suits (one in darker brown and one in thin white pinstripe on navy,) and some dress shirts, and Megan selected a black and white cotton dress, as well as a knee-length silver, silk dress with capped sleeves and a white, cowl-neck wool coat. After outlining on paper your choices, you are then taken upstairs to pick fabrics. We were like kids in a candy store. They literally bring you into a room with hundreds of fabric options, and you pick your lining, buttons, zippers, and just about everything else. Prices were negotiated, and then they proceed to try to goad you into buying more shirts, dresses, whatever. "Two more for YOU!" they'd shriek, slapping you on the butt, pinching your cheeks, etc, and then draping unwanted silk and wool over your head/arms/waist. The whole scene was quite comical, but worth it, because in the end, they did a fabulous job. We are really bummed that we didn't get any pictures with our salesgirls, because we got to know them quite well over the course of our few days in Hoi An.

"Old town" Hoi An was designated a UNESCO world heritage site as "a well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port of the 15th to 19th centuries, whose buildings display a unique blend of local and foreign influences." During our visit we also had a chance to explore some of the historical temples, homes and museums, as well as wander the charming alleyways enjoying delicious Vietnamese coffee and deserts, crafts, and fresh fruit. There is a very evident Chinese influence in Hoi An, primarily due to the large Chinese community there. Here are some pictures.

a to-die-for desert from a street-side cafe in Hoi An

The rains pretty much continued for the duration of our visit to Hoi An, which was okay, since thankfully most of our activities in Hoi An were indoors. The entire ancient portion of the port (water-front harbor) flooded in the evenings, making for a messy tangle of cyclos, dogs, vendors and tourists.

Hoi An street in the rain

Chinese assembly hall

conical-shaped spirals of incense, Chinese temple, Hoi An

alter in a Chinese temple, Hoi An

purple lotus flower, Hoi An

paintings for sale in Hoi An, Vietnam

waterfront view from the Japanese Bridge in the rain

Hoi An flooding in the rain

boat woman in Hoi An

some elderly ladies lighting up in Hoi An

the national symbol of Vietnam, the motorbike, was alive and well in Hoi An

carrying a palm tree through town... you know, normal stuff

Hoi An locals at the market

Hoi An local carrying baskets over her shoulder- this is a very common way to transport items- especially produce- in Vietnam

A great addition to our Hoi An experience was getting to spend time with our Spanish friends from Ha Long Bay, Jose, Valle, and Luis once more. We coincidently were staying at a guesthouse right next to theirs, and met up for coffee and a tasty buffet dinner one night. The spanglish and beer carried us to the wee hours, and it was a wonderful end to a relaxing few days of retail therapy on the coast of Vietnam.

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to pass on a quick link... an article was recently written about our travel experience and philosophy in the February 4, 2008 edition of the Cavalier Daily, UVA's main student newspaper. We were contacted by a reporter there who was interested in our unorthodox career descriptions on facebook, she asked us some questions over email, and voila! You can read it at the following link:

http://www.cavalierdaily.com/CVArticle.asp?ID=32256&pid=1678.

I've also cut and pasted it below.

Globetrotting after graduation
Travel provides University students an alternative path after college

Danielle Blundell, Cavalier Daily Senior Writer

Spring semester has sprung, which means fourth-year students have about 15 weeks left to turn a B.A. or B.S. into a J-O-B before waving goodbye to the University. While some students are interviewing for corporate positions or facing uncertainty about their futures, for others graduation presents an opportunity to travel abroad, whether for recreational, teaching or volunteering purposes.

Statistically speaking, the exact number of unemployed University graduates -- whether caught in limbo somewhere between the college experience and the "real world" or between jobs -- is difficult to determine. Ladd Flock, director of Arts & Sciences Career Services, said the rate of unemployment following graduation is unknown because those without jobs are unlikely to respond to the Career Service survey, "Final Destination of Recently Graduated Students," which begins circulating at the conclusion of the academic year.

"Students tend to respond once they land a job," Flock said. "We see our highest response rate in July because many employers don't make their hiring decisions until they have actual positions to fill."

Some students' paths don't fit neatly into the survey's fixed categories. Some call taking time off to travel adventurous, others impulsive. Whatever the connotation, exploring distant areas and unfamiliar cultures increasingly has become a panacea for the "quarter-life" crisis, a concept that captures the feeling of recent college graduates lacking a firm grasp of who they are or what they want to do.

For 2001 College graduate Catterson Oh and his wife, 2003 College graduate Megan Lantz, traveling initially took a backseat to entering the professional world, mainly for monetary reasons.

"We never considered travel immediately post-grad," Lantz said. "It was simply too expensive, and the idea of 'entering the real world' a year or two later than my peers in debt and with no job experience seemed too daunting."

Despite their initial hesitations, Oh and Lantz developed their impetus for traveling on the heels of a quarter-life crisis, which prompted their desire to see the world while still in their youth and to have an experience together that would teach them about themselves and perhaps inspire friends at home.

Six months and nine countries later, Oh and Lantz find recent college graduates increasingly attracted to -- but apprehensive of -- making a similar decision to theirs.

"It seems like this is something so many people in our peer group and demographic want to do, but for some reason, they justify their way out of it," Oh said.

Part of that justification, Oh said, is fueled by fear in its most general sense. Lantz also cited the pressure college graduates feel "to keep up with their peer group in terms of salary, purchasing a condo, getting married and going to grad school."

If graduates-turned-travelers overcome their hesitations, they have a wide array of potential experiences awaiting them. According to Lantz, the traveling-abroad clichés that often serve as dinner party fodder are true: Traveling seems to be an eye-opening time of reflection, during which those who take the plunge really do learn about themselves and others while fine-tuning their individual definitions of happiness and rewarding experiences.

"Money is certainly not corollary with happiness," Lantz said. "When we traveled through Laos, one of the least-developed and poor countries in Southeast Asia, we were constantly met with warmth and friendliness, and the strength in community relationships there -- despite the poverty -- was palpable."

Beyond emotional discovery, travel also can test the bounds of physical strength, revealing what it actually takes to survive. Lantz said her own reliance on material comfort and possessions has been significantly diminished through travel.

"Because we carry everything on our backs, being a minimalist is essential," she said.

Through their travels and encounters with others, Oh and Lantz also have dealt with unfavorable perceptions of Americans. Lantz said she sees contact with people of different nationalities and backgrounds as a possible solution for revising negative images of America.

"You have to have tough skin and realize that unfortunately that is the perception, and only by getting out there and traveling can you change it," Lantz said.

At present, Oh and Lantz's journey has brought them to New Zealand, where they are currently working on a kiwifruit farm to finance their next move to South Island. They said their exposure to citizens from countries far and wide has emphasized the common humanity of all people.

"The open-heartedness that people seem to have while traveling is amazing," Lantz said. "It is a reminder of how closed you are whilst in the safety and familiarity of your own community."

Gigi Davis-White, director of Education School Career Services, reflected this same sentiment in describing another alternative post-graduation option open to college graduates regardless of their schools or majors: teaching abroad.

"A big motivator for students is to experience a global culture and a multicultural society," Davis-White said. "Of course, we have multiculturalism here in the United States, but it is a very different experience to be one of few, rather than one of many."

While Oh and Lantz said they encourage students thinking about experiencing life abroad to take the plunge, they also advise students to use their time to acquire new skills and make connections.

"I'm not saying you should be reckless with your money or career, but taking a calculated risk to travel for a year almost always pays off," Lantz said. "Travel will inevitably open up new ideas and help expand your international professional network."

Flock also noted the importance of keeping track of what is transpiring at home while country-hopping.

"If you take an alternative career path, like traveling and volunteering or social work and overseas education, just continue to build new skills," Flock said. "While taking time off, it is important to pay attention and stay connected."

When asked what advice she would give to students on the verge of graduation, Lantz offered these comments.

"Don't feel like you have to rush into any particular graduate program or career path, and don't feel like all is lost if you don't know what you want to do with your life as soon as you finish walking the Lawn." Lantz said. "The quarter-life crisis is a phenomenon that seems to hit everyone these days, and you will probably feel that pressure at some point, post-grad."

After a few days in the north, we jumped on a sleeper train bound south for the imperial city of Hue on the banks of the aromatically named Perfume River. This time we had our guesthouse man arrange us a taxi (thankfully we got to the Hanoi train station without incident) and all was well again with the world. We elected to splash out on a sleeper compartment on the train, and had a pleasant night of rest, waking up in Hue.

Here is some lovely background information on Hue, courtesy of asiarooms.com:

Hue was the capital of Vietnam during the feudal rule from 1802 to 1945 under the Nguyen dynasty and subsequently the centre of architectural evolution of the era. Not surprisingly, it is known for the magnificent architecture of its citadels, palaces, royal tombs, pagodas and temples juxtaposed against a lush scenic background of greenery on the banks of the Perfume River, inspiring many poetries and eulogies for their spellbinding beauty.
The various structures that are a hallmark of the ancient architecture of the land are laid out in harmony with nature and in accordance with the principles of geomancy (feng shui). Apart from its splendid monuments that are a fond reminder of the past glory of the city, the ancient traditions and practices of the people of Hue are still an innate part of the modern day life today. One can get a vivid glimpse of the cultural traditions of Hue, as passed down from generations, in their daily routines and activities in religion, gastronomy, handicraft, music, the performing arts and traditional festivals.

It is due to these cultural treasures and vestiges that Hue became Vietnam's first World Cultural Heritage site recognized by UNESCO in 1993.

As described above, Hue turned out to be an incredibly preserved showcase of all things imperial and ornate. We took a $7 all day tour of the main sights (including lunch... how do they DO it?!) and visited the Imperial Citadel, several emperors' tombs, and the Thien Mu Pagoda on the banks of the Perfume River. Our day ended with a boat trip back up the river to the central part of the city. Enroute, we met a great New Zealander couple, too, Jenni and Graeme. Here are some pictures:

View of modern section of Hue from our guesthouse

Incense for sale in Hue

Making a conical hat in Hue... apparently, the city is most famous as a conical-hat making center for Vietnam

trees at the Emperor Tu Duc's tomb

Emperor Tu Duc's tomb

Emperor Minh Mang's tomb... apparently this guy had over 500 concubines! Their cemetary for THEM was in the back. No kidding.

interior of Minh Mang's tomb

schoolboy riding a bike in Hue, Vietnam

entry to the Citadel, or walled city within Hue

The largest flagpole in Vietnam (I don't know if the flag is the largest; they just said flagpole

within the Citadel in Hue, and our guide

After visiting the Citadel and the tombs of Emperors Tu Duc and Minh Mang, we headed over to the subdued and pretty banks of the Perfume River to visit Thien Mu Pagoda. The pagoda is situated on Ha Khe hill a few miles southwest of central Hue city. The temple complex stretches north from the river banks in seven successive tiers, each of which is dedicated to a human form taken by the Buddha or a step to enlightenment.

A complex of monastic buildings lies in the center of the temple complex, where the monks are usually involved in their daily routines of cooking, stacking wood, and whacking weeds, as well as the recitation of prayers at 5:00 PM, daily (catch our pictures, below).

Perhaps the most notoriously fascinating (and gruesome) event associated with Thien Mu is the protest self-immolation that took place next to a car housed here in the '60s. A building near the rear of the complex houses the car in which the monk Thich Quang Duc rode from his temple to Saigon on June 11, 1963. He stepped out of the car in a busy intersection, sat down on the pavement in the lotus position, and burned himself to death in protest against the then regime's violations of religious freedom. Below is a picture of the car, as well as the monk on fire. You may recognize the picture, too, as the cover of the self-titled 1992 Rage Against the Machine debut album.

Thien Mu Pagoda on the banks of the Perfume River

Car next to which Thich Quang Duc set himself on fire in protest to religious intolerance

For more on this story, check out this link at wikipedia. Very interesting, sobering stuff: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thich_Quang_Duc

...and here are some pictures of the young monks at Thien Mu Pagoda:

monks at Thien Mu Pagoda

Next stop, Hoi An!